Do you handle the street approach?

Yes. The approach where the driveway meets the street takes the most abuse and is often the first part to fail, so it gets the same base prep and reinforcement as the rest.

A wide concrete driveway sweeping up to a suburban home's two-car garage

Home Services Concrete driveways

Concrete driveways, poured to last the house.

New driveways, full replacements, widenings and street approaches across Royse City, Rockwall, Fate and Heath. Dug to depth, base compacted, rebar chaired up off the dirt, joints saw-cut early.

Call (469) 601-8771 Get a free estimate

The job

The biggest slab on the property, and the hardest working.

Your driveway carries two or three tons of vehicle, several times a day, through summers that bake the clay under it and winters that soak it. It is the first thing anyone sees when they pull up, and the first thing that tells them whether the house has been looked after.

Most of the failed driveways we get called out to weren't badly finished. They were poured too thin, on a base that was never compacted, with wire mesh lying flat on the dirt. It looked perfect for two years. Then the clay moved.

We'd rather spend the extra half-day on the part nobody photographs.

Get a number for yours

Covers: New pours, replacements, widenings, extensions, pads and approaches
Base: Dug to depth and mechanically compacted before anything is placed
Steel: Rebar tied and chaired into the middle of the slab (mesh where it suits the job)
Finish: Broom finish as standard — grip when it's wet
Joints: Control joints saw-cut early, at proper depth and spacing
Includes: Break-out, loading and haul-off of the old concrete

What's in it

Every driveway we pour gets all of this.

There is no stripped-back version. These are the steps that decide whether you're looking at a good driveway in year ten.

Reinforcing bar tied into a grid across a prepared slab area before a pour

Base and steel done properly

Old concrete broken out and hauled away, subgrade dug to depth and compacted, forms set square to the fall we agreed. Then rebar tied into a grid and lifted onto chairs so it sits inside the slab, not underneath it.

Break-out & haul-offDig to depthMechanical compactionSquare formsChaired rebar

A worker running a screed across freshly placed concrete on a wide pour

Placed, screeded, hand-finished

Concrete placed and screeded to level, floated, then worked by hand at the edges, the garage lip and anywhere it meets brick or a walkway. A broom finish goes on last for grip in the rain.

Screed to levelFloat & trowelHand-worked edgesBroom finishClean tie-ins

A finished residential concrete driveway and front walk at a two-car garage

Joints cut, site left clean

Control joints saw-cut early at the right depth and spacing so the slab cracks where we put the line, not across the middle. Then forms out, debris gone, drive swept, and a straight answer about when you can park on it.

Saw-cut control jointsCorrect spacingForms removedDebris hauledCure dates in writing

A close view of reinforcing bar laid across compacted ground before a concrete pour

Why here is different

North Texas clay does not sit still.

The expansive clay under most of Rockwall County swells when it takes on water and shrinks hard when it dries out. That movement is the reason driveways here crack, step and rock in a way they don't in other parts of the country.

You can't stop the ground moving. What you can do is give the slab enough thickness, enough steel in the right place, a base that doesn't wash out, and joints spaced so the movement is absorbed in straight lines. That's the whole argument for doing the invisible part properly.

Compacted base // Correct depth // Chaired rebar // Joint spacing // Drainage away from the slab // Clean tie-ins

Common jobs

What people usually call us about.

New & replacement

A full driveway replacement where the old one is cracked through or rocking
A new driveway on a house that's never had one poured
Ribbon or strip drives replaced with a full slab
The street approach re-poured where it's sunk or broken up
Garage apron and lip re-formed so the transition is flat again

More room

Widening for a third vehicle or so two doors can open at once
An extension down the side of the house to a gate or a shop
A parking pad for a trailer, boat or RV, poured to carry the weight
A turnaround so you're not backing into the road
A pad for the garbage cans that stops them sinking into the grass

Talk it through: (469) 601-8771 Or read about repair

Driveway questions

Asked before every pour.

Anything not here, call (469) 601-8771.

How thick should a residential driveway be?

Four inches is the common residential standard for cars and light trucks. Where there's an RV, a trailer, a work truck or repeated heavy deliveries involved, we go thicker and adjust the reinforcement to match. Either way you'll know what we're pouring before it's poured.

Can you just extend or widen what I've got?

Yes — it's one of the most common jobs we do. We tie the new section in at the joint rather than butting it up loose, so the two slabs move together instead of stepping apart on you a couple of summers later.

How long does a driveway take?

For a typical residential drive, the demo, dig and prep is usually a day or two, the pour itself is a single day, and after that it's curing. You get the real schedule for your job before we start, not a guess.

Do you handle the approach out to the street?

Yes. The approach takes the most abuse of any part of the driveway and it's often the first section to fail, so it gets the same base prep and reinforcement as everything else.

How long before I can park on it?

Keep vehicles off for about a week, and stay off it on foot for roughly 24 hours. Concrete keeps gaining strength for around 28 days, so go easy on the very edges early on.

What about the old concrete?

Broken out, loaded and hauled off as part of the job. You don't need to find a dumpster or a second contractor for it.

Free estimate